Hair Relaxer Regular Activator & Base

Hair Care

Hair Relaxer Regular Activator & Base

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Water (Aqua) (deionized)
59.00

Guanidine Carbonate
27.00

Phase B

Calcium Hydroxide
5.00

Phase C

Petrolatum
9.10

Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum)
6.50

Polyquaternium-37, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), PPG-1 Trideceth-6
1.00

PEG-75 Lanolin
1.00

Cocoa Butter–Certified Organic (HallStar) (Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter)
0.20

Olive Oil - Ultra Refined (HallStar) (Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil)
0.10

Phase D

HallStar NCD-20 (HallStar) (Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20)
13.00

Phase E

Vitamin E Natural (HallStar) (Tocopherol)
0.10

Procedure

Activator: Add the water of phase A to the main vessel. Start mixing and slowly add the Guanidine Carbonate. Heat this water phase to 75°C. In a separate vessel, combine phase B. Heat this oil phase to 75°C, then add phase C. When both phases are homogeneous and at 75°C, slowly add BC to A with prop mixing. After 5 minutes, start cooling. Add phase D ingredients in order when batch is at 50°C. Stop cooling when batch is at 30°C. Add water to correct for evaporative loss and mix until uniform. Condition sample for pH and viscosity determinations. Base: Combine phase A in the main vessel. Start mixing and slowly add phase B. Mix for 30 minutes, then heat to 75°C. In a separate vessel, combine phase C. Heat to 75°C, then add phase D. When CD is homogeneous, add phase E and mix well. When AB and CDE are homogeneous and at 75°C, slowly add oil phase CDE to the water phase AB with prop mixing. After 5 minutes, start cooling with mixing until batch is at 30°C. Add water to correct for evaporative loss. Mix batch until uniform. Condition sample prior to pH and viscosity measurements. Instructions for Use: Wear impenetrable gloves. Combine equal amounts of Activator and Base in a plastic bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the blend is completely homogeneous. Perform allergy and strand tests and do not scratch scalp before using.

Properties

(25°C): Activator: Appearance—Translucent white cream; Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV, T-D, after 48h; mPa∙s)— 6000–10000; pH—10.9–11.3 Base: Appearance—Opaque white cream; Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV, T-D, after 24h at room temperature, mPa∙s)—35000 – 59000; pH—11.7 - 12.1